Craftsman Battery Powered Caulk Gun Review
I went ahead and picked up the "Craftsman V20 Cordless Caulk and Adhesive Dispenser" Model number CMCE600 recently. No, that's really its official name. Because it's not like regular manually operated caulk guns aren't "cordless" or anything. I dunno.
I bought the Craftsman because it is in the battery platform of one of the platforms I have battery powered tools in that also had a powered caulk gun. Also, because it's $59 on Amazon and based on several reviews I've seen, for the money, it performs actually pretty well.
First Impressions
First impressions before I even put a tube of caulk in it (they refer to it as a "cylinder")...
Just to test the motor upon arrival (sometimes things do arrive and don't work), I threw in a simple little 1.5 AH battery that I normally use in my mini fan. It did, in fact, work.
Now, one of, not the only, but one of, the main purposes of a powered caulk gun is to reduce muscle fatigue. This puppy says it weighs 4.6 pounds before you put a battery or "cylinder" in it. I'm here to tell you that in normal use of a caulk gun, that's not a light tool over a period of time. Do enough caulking and you'll be 2 handing this sucker before too long is what I expect.
As a professional handyman, I sometimes do window replacement and repair for houses and some small businesses. If I have like, 12 windows to do, I really don't want to use a manual caulk gun.
Next up, the grip on the handle is NOT made for people with big, wide hands like me. It feels a bit uncomfortable to my grip. To be fair... pretty much ALL cordless tool handles are not made for my hand size. If you have normal, little people sized hands, you should be fine.
Third off the bat... the trigger lock switch seems ridiculously small. It's so recessed into the grip you practically need a tool to move it. That was not a great move Craftsman.
There is no powered reverse of the plunger rod. You have to manually pull it back to insert a tube in it. Not a problem actually. I guess I just dont see a reason it shouldn't be able to reverse.
I do like the rafter hook on it. I almost always hang my caulk gun on a ladder rung or somewhere and that's a good type of hanger.
You need to fully depress the trigger to activate the power. I see this as a good thing. It can be way too easy to be on a ladder and not pay attention to how you hold a tool and suddenly turn on the tool. So even if you only apply a little pressure to the trigger, you won't gave caulk or whatever shooting everywhere.
The gun doesn't have a variable speed trigger control. The six speed settings are at the back of the gun. The controller is a dial type with 1 through 6 pretty clearly marked. I'm not sure how well that will work out. I tend to prefer a variable control trigger.
This gun offers 550 "pounds of force". I would think that would be the non-air powered version of PSI. When you compare that to say, the Milwaukee version, which boasts about 900 pounds of force at 20V but runs about $220.00, I think, for the market it's targeted to, the Craftsman's 550 pounds is pretty great per dollar spent. And honestly, unless your putting down some very viscous and dense material on a pretty regular basis, like you'd expect to in an industrial environment, 550 pounds of force is more than enough for residential or general commercial stuff.
I'll be caulking storm windows soon (using a 2AH battery) so I'll get some video/photos of it in action doing that. I might even try it with a tube of glazing putty, which is a bit different than caulk.
AAR, After Action Report
I was able to use the caulk gun on a couple of different projects right away. One was applying window glazing in a cartridge (DAP) and then actually caulking to the storm windows as they got put back on after replacing broken glass in some house windows.
Window Glazing
The DAP Window Glazing in a cartridge is not the same stuff you get in the traditional little plastic tubs. The original window glazing is a thick putty. The glazing-in-a-tube is a much thinner, less viscous material. I remembered to use a 2AH battery this time.
Not only is it a thin material, the tube has a nozzle designed to place it in a fixed position. So ideally, it applies AND manipulates in one pass. I wasn't sure of this particular glazing product (First time use of that one) but I knew it was thinner than putty. So I figured to start at the halfway point on setting 3.
The glazing was even thinner and faster than I expected. Setting 3 was way too much. So I moved it all the way down to setting 1 and that proved to be much more appropriate.








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